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"Theodore Roosevelt's Cabin"


 

This is the sort of thing that makes me skeptical of log cabin restorations. I mean, when they start taking out logs and replacing them, and reconstructing major features, and especially when they do that thing of disassembling the whole works and moving it, but of course, they carefully numbered each piece so as to get it back together exactly right—well, you could throw cats through the credibility gaps in this story of provenance.


And then, when they put the thing on wheels and move it from place to place, as if place itself meant nothing, as if a historic building were just some knickknack to be exhibited wherever, well, there just isn’t much historical sense left to it.


Now I’m going to interrupt my own rant, inspired by the story of Theodore Roosevelt’s log cabin, because as I read it—as told by Mike Thompson in his self-published book, The Travels and Tribulations of Theodore Roosevelt’s Cabin—I’m sensing something else, another kind of historical sense, gauche and tacky, but powerful, nevertheless. I’m sensing the power in that popular impulse to get a piece of the legend—I mean literally, get a piece of it, because souvenir hunters did make off with chunks of TR’s old Maltese Cross cabin.


And I’m thinking, who cares how much of that cabin the National Park Service has set up out by Medora is the real deal? If it invokes the historical spirit of that “damned cowboy” president, as Mark Hanna once called him, then maybe that’s enough.


Travels and tribulations, as the author Thompson puts it—the Roosevelt cabin sure had them. This was the ranch residence built for TR in 1883-84 by his foreman and friend, Sylvane Ferris, from pine logs cut for railroad ties in the Short Pine Hills, washed away by the flooding Little Missouri River, and salvaged for construction use. It was relatively spacious and had an unusually high gable and loft for ranch houses of the time. Here Roosevelt wrote one of his best books, Hunting Trips of a Ranchman.


Subsequent owners and occupants took off the high gabled roof and otherwise modified the cabin. Then the greater indignities commenced, as in 1903, during Roosevelt’s presidency, the state of North Dakota bought the cabin and exhibited it at the Louisiana Purchase Exposition in St. Louis. It was part of the agricultural exhibit, with stuffed animals and cornshocks on the roof. Countless visitors carved their initials into it. The cabin next traveled to the Lewis and Clark Exposition, in Portland, thence back to the fairgrounds in Fargo, where the reconstruction was badly bungled.


In 1908 the state placed the cabin on the capitol grounds in Bismarck. Here it got some loving care from the Daughters of the American Revolution. In 1927 the legislature provided funding for a fence, which was ornamented by a beautiful, ornate, somewhat inappropriate iron gate fashioned by the master blacksmith of North Dakota Agricultural College, Haile Chisholm. The state historical society still has this gate hammered out by Chisholm in storage, and I need to go see it, because judging by photographs, it is an amazing piece of work. It just looked a little silly in the middle of a chain-link fence in front of a log cabin.


The travels of Roosevelt’s cabin finally ended in 1959, when the park service brought it out to Medora. There still were some tribulations, though, in the form of major reconstructive surgery. “Today,” writes Thompson, “the Maltese Cross Ranch Cabin looks exactly as it did when Theodore Roosevelt lived in it over 120 years ago.”


We often do silly things with historic buildings, and we almost always do silly things with celebrities, and so it was to be expected that silly things would be done with the historic cabin of a celebrity president. May it rest in peace.

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